Shoulder Sleeve
Sleeve adjustments when eliminating shoulder pads?
I’ve been working on a couple of different patterns for short jackets and tops that call for shoulder pads(1/4 inch). I don’t like wearing shoulder pads of any size and am trying to adjust the pattern accordingly. I’ve made two small darts in the cap of the sleeve to remove fullness there. I’ve noticed that there is also bulk in the back and the front of the garment just below the shoulder. I already have to make a dart at the shoulder line (remove an inch)because I’m small in the shoulders. What other adjustments can I make to remove the bulk, these shoulder pad patterns contain?
I think I’d sew the seam at the top of the shoulder a little larger. What I mean is take up more material in the the top shoulder seam. You might start at the neckline where the normal seam starts but begin to slant the stitching further into the shoulder as you stitch toward the sleeve, so that instead of a 5/8 seam allowance you might have a7/8 to an inch seam allowance. This should take up the bulk in the shoulder that would have allowed room for the shoulder pad.
Holly Madison for AMI Clubwear